the breakers {life}

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Thank you all so much for your kind comments on yesterday's post! I responded to each of you in the comment section.

I was first (and last) at the Breakers in August of 1977. I was seven. Yes, I'm that old. My mom and dad will have to chime in on the particulars of this vacation to New England that we took with my grandparents (apparently I have been to Mystic!) because let's face it, the memory dims. I do remember the specific month and year very clearly because it was during this vacation that Elvis died. I may not remember Mystic (sorry Mystic!), but I do remember lots. It was cold! We stayed in a hotel with an indoor pool, and my dad swam in it with me for hours, even after it was supposed to have closed. Memories get jumbled, especially when you're a kid, but it seems to me that it was the morning after we'd stayed up late swimming in that pool that we picked up a paper to learn that Elvis had died.

Another thing that stood out to child-Lauren was Newport, RI and the Breakers. The Breakers is one of several "summer cottages" built in the late 1800s and early 1900s by the American royalty of the era. During this time families such as the Vanderbilts and Rockefellers escaped New York City to their homes on the New England Coast. The Breakers, considered the grandest of these "cottages," was originally a wooden home when purchased by Cornelius Vanderbilt II, who extended the family fortune during his stint as president of the New York Central Railroad. Vanderbilt remodeled the original home into a 70 room Italian-inspired mansion. No detail was left unconsidered, including the steps on the staircase in the grand hallway with risers two inches shorter than usual so that ladies could glide down them in their ball gowns. Chandeliers were fitted with electricity (a new rage!), but had pulls that could convert them to gas should the fickle electricity prove tricky. Bathtubs all had four fixtures, two taps each for hot and cold, one of which ran with salt water which was considered curative.

We took an audio tour (which was different from when I was here before and the tours were led by actual humans), and sadly, no photography was allowed in the building. Gladys, the youngest daughter of Corneilus Vanderbilt inherited the Breakers in 1934. Gladys was a supporter of the Preservation Society of Newport County and to support the society she opened the home to tours. In 1972 the home was sold to the Preservation Society for the princely sum of $399,999. The house was named for the huge waves that crash upon the beach below. The day we traveled there when I was a child was quite stormy, and our tour guide, who had taken a liking to me, led me into the loggia first, (the loggia is the covered porch, see the 3rd photo from the top, there's a person peeking out of one of the windows!), with the rest of the group trailing behind and said, "On days like this you can hear it...listen," and we could hear the distant thunder of the waves on the shore. Running along the bottom of the lawn (see the 4th photo from the bottom) is Newport's famed Cliff Walk, a 3.5 mile trail that runs between the mansions and the sea. Part walking path and part rugged trail, the cliff walk is an absolute must-do for me when we next head to Nantucket (sorry Megs, we're coming back!). I'm thinking if we pushed the drive a bit we could overnight in Newport, maybe?

It's a funny thing to go back to something you remember so distinctly from your childhood. The Breakers was different, for sure, but still, I wasn't disappointed. Decorated for Christmas, with lilies everywhere, the place smelled heavenly, and the crisp day was perfect for touring both inside and out. I always worry that Neel will be disappointed and Callum too, but no. We're ready to do it again. But which one next? Marble House?Rosecliff? Breakers again? All of them?

streets of philadelphia {life}

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As much as I love our neighborhood, I often feel hemmed in by suburbia. We go back and forth about what we'd like, the solitary silence of nature or the vibrant pace of city life? Cities feel so alive, don't they? Teeming with humanity. I love the idea of living downtown in some metropolis and walking everywhere we need to go. This weekend, visiting our friends Erin and Boyfriend (and I'm proud to call them "friends" not "creepy stalkers we met on the internet"), gave us a sample of that. As soon as we pulled into town, we dumped our car at the hotel and didn't lay eyes on it again until it was time to leave.

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Meeting Erin was nothing short of amazing. We quickly left our bags in the hotel and paced around outside waiting for her to arrive. Now that's an interesting moment, isn't it? Meeting someone you've never really seen before, but can't wait to? We took bets on which direction she'd come from, and Callum called it. He saw her first and as soon as he pointed her out (she was unmistakable!), I darted off down the street like someone in a cheesy movie. I promptly stepped on her foot, but she didn't seem to hold that against me. As for Neel and Callum, no introductions were necessary. I don't think we stopped talking for the rest of the night.

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Erin suggested a wonderful diner for breakfast the next morning that was right across the street from our hotel, but sadly we had to bypass it. I love me some diner food, but we knew we'd be having a big lunch (hello, Parc!) and ball park food that night. We opted for pastries and coffee at Miel, just a door or two down from our hotel. And this is why city life is so nice. Walk to pastries? Not shabby.

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Our hotel was located around the corner from Rittenhouse Square, named after a famed astronomer in the early 1800s. By the second half of the 19th century Rittenhouse was home to the fashionable elite of Philadelphia, which, I'm sure is why Neel's parents lived here for a bit when they were first married. Many years later, though. The square still teems with life. A farmer's market was set up on Saturday with Amish farmers selling gorgeous flowers. There are kids playing, people running and walking, sitting and talking. All manners of doggies sit and walk or bark at squirrels. It's not at all a bad place to spend a weekend morning. Or any morning really. Except perhaps a sleety, cold Pennsylvania morning when you're late for work and your dog won't pee damnit.

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I, too can take photos of people when they aren't looking! Erin is a wonderful host in her beloved city. She bought us bus tokens and zipped us around town with ease. Part of why I love traveling to visit people in their spaces is how relaxing it is. I didn't have to worry about a thing. Erin had the tokens. Erin knew which bus to take and when to get off. She knew where to hop into the gift shop for Independence Hall and how to time our tours. We certainly felt well tended to. And besides, Philly is fun! We met up with Boyfriend for lunch at Parc, and I didn't take many photos because we were too busy having fun. We shared some mussels and pommes frites, and we laughed and talked the whole time. You'd never, ever know we'd just met BF. Ever! And you'd never have known he was feeling crummy either. Poor guy. What a trooper.

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After naps all around, we were escorted to the ball park with more of Erin's mad skills. You can see how dark the skies are. No more on this shall be spoken. We're still sad.

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Oh, but nothing some doggie love can't cure! Brunch with Erin, Boyfriend and Fitz was the perfect cap to our weekend. Their city condo is so charming, and I can attest that the guest room project continues apace. It's going to be an amazing space...it already is! Boyfriend made an amazing quiche and having Fitz around was like some kind of interactive dinner theater! He and Callum got along famously! We felt welcomed beyond belief and it was hard to tear ourselves away.

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I should probably go on the record here and say that Cal (and Neel, but really, Cal) just loved Erin (and Boyfriend, but really, Erin). Meeting her and spending time with her was just about the only thing that could make up for that-which-shall-not-be-spoken-of. He had a wonderful time. I think she's probably his first celebrity crush! I We can't wait to go back.